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Istanbul is a city of mementos. It makes sense then for someone like Zeynel to have been raised in its cradle – its stories about the kings and people who have lived and died and loved and fallen across time and religion and culture…they are endless, sprawling, messy, beautiful. And they are told not just with words, but in the rocks of crumbling ruins, the gates of ancient walls and the foundations of repurposed churches. They are everywhere.

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